JOHANNESBURG – For decades, South Africans have debated one deceptively simple question: why are there three different ‘Polo’ brands on the shelves — and which one is the real deal? From TikTok feuds to mall-aisle confusion, few fashion topics spark as much debate as the national Polo identity crisis.
This confusion was brought to a head in late 2025 when, after a 48-year legal standoff, the US luxury giant Ralph Lauren Corporation acquired the local Polo brand from the LA Group. This landmark deal, approved by the Competition Commission, finally merges two brands that have coexisted uneasily in the same wardrobes for generations.
To unpack this long-running saga, NOWinSA dives into the histories, legal realities, and brand identities of Polo South Africa, Ralph Lauren, and US Polo Assn — three labels that share a name and a horse, but come from entirely different worlds.
A tale of three Polos
- Polo South Africa: The homegrown contender
Many shoppers have long assumed Polo SA is the international Ralph Lauren. It never was.
Polo South Africa — operated by the LA Group — was launched and its logo trademarked locally in 1976, nine years after Ralph Lauren’s founding. Its logo features a single polo player facing right. For nearly 50 years, it built a formidable presence in sub-Saharan Africa, becoming a staple of smart-casual South African style.
· What it stands for: South African heritage, accessible luxury, everyday smart casual essentials.
· Why it was legitimate: Polo SA legally owned the “Polo” clothing trademark in South Africa for decades, a right consistently upheld in court, including a pivotal 2022 Supreme Court of Appeal ruling.
· The Grey Area: The near-identical name and logo to Ralph Lauren led many consumers to feel deliberately misled, buying what they thought was a global luxury item. As one shocked consumer posted on X: “I’m returning from my closet in horror! I’ve been prancing around in fakes.”
- Ralph Lauren: The global luxury powerhouse
Founded in 1967, Ralph Lauren is a $16 billion global luxury house. Outside South Africa, its name is synonymous with “Polo.” Its iconic logo features a polo player facing left. Despite its global dominance, it was legally blocked from selling its core Polo clothing line in South Africa due to the LA Group’s earlier trademark.
· What it stands for: American luxury, high-end craftsmanship, and global prestige.
· Why it’s legitimate: Ralph Lauren owns the “Polo” trademark across most of the world and is the original creator of the iconic polo shirt as we know it.
· The acquisition: The recent takeover ends the long war. In a statement on the acquisition, a Ralph Lauren spokesperson said: “We have long admired the vibrant South African market and are thrilled to finally bring the authentic Ralph Lauren experience directly to its consumers.” The deal marks Ralph Lauren’s full-scale entry into a market where South Africa leads the continent’s luxury segment.
- US Polo Assn. (USPA): The sport’s official brand
The most misunderstood player is US Polo Assn. (USPA), the only brand officially authorised by the United States Polo Association, the sport’s governing body which has been in existence since 1890. While the association is over a century old, the US Polo Assn. brand itself was established in 1981.
Is logo often features two riders, a deliberate distinction from the single-horse logos of its competitors. The brand only entered the South African market in 2021, partnering with the local distributor Stable Brands, which also played a role in the broader legal battles over the Polo name in the country.
· What it stands for: An authentic connection to the sport of polo, sporty casualwear, and global youth appeal.
· Why it’s legitimate: USPA is legally separate from both Polo SA and Ralph Lauren. It has its own global trademark and, as an institution, actually predates Ralph Lauren.
· The confusion: Many mistake USPA for a knock-off due to the equestrian motif, but it is the only one of the three with a direct, authentic link to the actual sport.
The legal war and the Apple-iStore grey area
The existence of three Polos is a masterclass in intellectual property. The LA Group’s 1976 registration under “first-to-file” laws created a legal fortress. A secretive 1980s “co-existence agreement” even allowed Ralph Lauren to only sell perfumes in SA, while the LA Group dominated clothing.
This grey area of brand perception is a recurring theme in South African retail, closely observed by NOWinSA. A perfect analogy is the relationship between Apple and iStore.
While iStore is the official retailer for Apple in South Africa, its branding leads many to believe it is owned by Apple Inc. Similarly, Polo SA’s branding led consumers to believe it was Ralph Lauren. This highlights the fine line between authorised association and potential consumer confusion, a topic explored in our investigation into fake luxury brands and how to spot them.
The bottom line: Which Polo should you buy?
The right choice depends on what you value. With the acquisition, the landscape is simplifying, but understanding the history is key.
· For Global Luxury & Prestige: Ralph Lauren is now the undisputed choice. With the acquisition, you can expect the full global range and experience to become directly available.
· For Sporty Authenticity & Value: US Polo Assn. wins, offering a genuine link to the sport at a more accessible price point.
· For Local Legacy & Everyday Wear: The Polo South Africa brand, as it has existed for 48 years, is now part of Ralph Lauren’s history. Its legacy is one of local business acumen that successfully held a global giant at bay for half a century.
The end of the Polo wars marks a significant moment in South African retail. It underscores that in the world of fashion, what you see isn’t always what you get—but with a little knowledge, you’ll always know exactly which Polo you’re buying.
ALSO READ: Who’ll be the last German standing? Battle for South Africa’s luxury auto market heats up
